Walkthrough
How to make a 3D printed vase.
Five steps, one sitting, no CAD. You shape the form the way a potter works a wall, dress it with pattern and glaze, and leave with a watertight STL your slicer accepts without repair. Everything below happens in the browser.
1Set the proportions
Open the studio and start a new vessel. Pull the wall to rough in the big three: foot, belly and rim. Then drag the silhouette's control points to refine the profile, and switch a point between sharp, soft and flowing to change the character of the curve at that height.
Tip. Spin the form while you work and read it from every side. A profile that looks right face-on can go slack in three quarters.
2Stack the patterns
Open the pattern timeline and add from the library: twists, flutes, ribs, scales, carved relief. Each pattern has its own depth, scale and rhythm to dial. The stack applies in order, and the order is part of the design; a twist over ribs spirals them, ribs over a twist stay straight.
Tip. Out of ideas? Roll the die. Every result is a readable setting, so a lucky roll is a starting point you can refine, never a dead end.
3Glaze and judge
Pick a glaze from the shelf or mix your own, pour it on, and set how thick it sits. Then fire it and watch it behave like glass on clay: it flows down the form, breaks over hard edges and pools in the lows. Adjust and fire again until the finish reads the way you want.
Tip. Judge the glaze on the patterned form, not in the abstract. A glaze that breaks well over flutes can drown fine relief.
4Export the file
Set the export detail with one dial, from a light file to a ceiling-quality mesh, and download STL, OBJ or GLB. Every export is watertight by construction; the readout that stayed on while you worked is the same check the file ships with.
5Slice and print
Open the file in the slicer you already use. For the classic single-wall look, enable vase mode (some slicers call it spiralize) and the printer draws the outer wall as one continuous ribbon. For a heavier piece, print it solid with your own wall and infill settings. Either way there is no mesh to repair first.
Watertight is the studio's one promise it never trades away. Every export is a single closed solid, checked before the engine hands it over. A slicer can still object to things that live outside the mesh, a piece taller than your bed or a scale set in the wrong unit. If one ever rejects a VASE 3D export as broken geometry, send it to the address on the contact page and we will look at it.